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An Easy Rule of Thumb for Deciding When to Direct Sow

by Fern on January 25, 2010

in Fruits & Vegetables,How To

Post image for An Easy Rule of Thumb for Deciding When to Direct Sow

The vast majority of time, it is better to start seeds either indoors, or in a smaller container with the intention of transplanting the seedling to a larger pot. This is because it is really hard to get plants started from seed into the right spot in a mixed container if the seeds are sown directly into the container. That being said, there are a few plants that I think you should always directly sow into their first and only pot, and there is a simple way to remember which seeds to directly sow and which you should transplant.

Some plants develop a strong, central root, while others develop a network of roots that look like a rat’s nest of thread. Plants that develop a central root really don’t like that root to be disturbed, and those are the plants that you should sow directly. In the context of container gardening, the plants that should not be transplanted are almost always edibles. And it’s easy to tell which edibles have a single major root, because they are the plants with an underground part that we like to eat (i.e. carrots, radishes, etc).

What happens if you do decide to transplant a vegetable whose root you intend to eat? Well, if you damage the root during transplanting (which is very easy to do), the resulting vegetable will look like the carrot on the right. It’s also important to note that if you use potting soil that has chunks of wood in it (as many cheaper potting mixes are wont to have) you might have the same problem.

Oh, and FYI, even though this falls outside of the rule of thumb I outlined above, I know that poppies don’t like to be transplanted either. And like every rule, there is an exception: beets seem to do pretty well with transplanting.

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{ 13 comments… read them below or add one }

Kylee from Our Little Acre January 25, 2010 at 6:58 am

Great post, Fern! Really great! Hadn’t given much thought to this before now. You’re correct about beets. I HATE to thin, but last summer, I took the strongest of the ones I pulled and replanted them between the rows. More beets! :-)

Reply

Fern January 25, 2010 at 3:07 pm

Kylee–You’re hardcore. I just ate those bad boys. ;-)

Leonard from Permaculture for Renters January 25, 2010 at 10:40 am

Fern,

This is a really helpful post. I think it’s useful to emphasize somehing that you’ve already said (in different words): that the ‘underground rule’ applies only to taprooted species. Alliums (garlic, onions, etc.) and potatoes, while subterranean, are bulbs and tubers, respectively. These delectables take quite well to transplanting, and in the case of tubers, generally must be transplanted. (Starting potatoes from seed is an adventure only for the most hardcore enthusiast!)

Also, I’ve generally found it useful to direct seed greens that I plan on harvesting as a mesclun mix, even in containers. And with these you don’t really thin, in the normal sense, just harvest and eat from areas that are too dense!

Thanks again for the great site. Glad to have rediscovered it.

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Fern January 25, 2010 at 3:07 pm

Thanks for sharing that info Leonard, really good points. Something I learned in my master gardener class is that garlic, onions, and potatoes aren’t really a “root.” They’re modified leaves and stems. Or at least that’s what botanists insist.

Bob January 25, 2010 at 1:14 pm

Fern, Poppies also grow a central taproot, which is why they don’t like to be transplanted. Nasturtiums and Morning Glories also seem to prefer being direct-sown. You won’t necessarily kill a plant with a taproot if you don’t direct-sow it, but the resulting plant will generally be set-back and won’t grow as vigorously as one that was direct sown.

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Fern January 25, 2010 at 3:05 pm

Interesting observations Bob. I’ve not had a problem with transplanting nasturtiums, but I almost always direct sow them because I usually use them as filler and don’t really care if they aren’t in the exact perfect spot. I’ve never grown morning glories because I don’t want to have to deal with trying to get rid of them!

Mary C January 26, 2010 at 9:17 am

but my deformed carrots are so entertaining…. ;)

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melanie watts January 27, 2010 at 7:50 am

Great post Fern and very informative. Dill is another plant that doesn’t like to be transplanted because, like poppies, it too has a taproot. Even so I tend to direct seed almost all my veggies except tomatoes and peppers, they go in the greenhouse. I sometimes start brassicas indoors. It depends how busy I am I suppose.

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Chani January 29, 2010 at 10:59 am

That carrot is pretty amazing.

I’ve tried and tried to direct sow poppies, with very little success. It’s very tempting to try transplanting them, but I’ll resist.

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Dirt Gently January 3, 2011 at 11:39 am

Would peat pots (or toilet paper rolls or other, similar containers that can be planted) be suitable for starting off transplant-adverse seedlings?

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Fern January 3, 2011 at 12:34 pm

Dirt Gently–I think it depends. If the transplant-adverse plant is one in which you’ll be eating the root (i.e. carrots, beets, etc) I would always direct sow. I would worry that the peat pot or toilet paper roll wouldn’t break down fast enough and would interfere with the plant’s growth. But if you’re not going to eat the root, then peat pots or–to a lesser extent–toilet paper pots would do a good job of reducing transplant shock.

Dirt Gently January 5, 2011 at 6:31 am

Thanks for the tips, Fern. I’ll be direct sowing my carrots, then, but I do plan on doing a little experiment with some poppies and Pulsatilla sp. I’m wintersowing soon. Guess I’ll find out how well peat pots and toilet paper rolls work!

Reply

Fern January 5, 2011 at 11:23 am

Dirt Gently–Cool, let us know how the peat pots work out for you!

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